How to Winterize Outdoor Furniture

Clean it. Treat it. Cover it or store it. That is the winterization sequence for every type of outdoor furniture. The order matters. Covering dirty furniture traps moisture against the surface and accelerates the damage you are trying to prevent.

We tested winterization methods on teak, powder-coated aluminum, resin wicker, wrought iron, and steel over three winters in the Northeast (USDA zone 6). Here is what works, what does not, and what is a waste of money.

When to Winterize

Start before the first hard freeze. In most of the US, that means late October to mid-November. If you wait until after freezing rain or snow has already hit, you are cleaning damage rather than preventing it.

The ideal conditions for winterization are a dry day above 50 degrees F (10 degrees C). You need surfaces dry enough for treatments to absorb and sealants to cure. Applying teak oil in 35-degree drizzle accomplishes nothing.

Step 1: Deep Clean by Material

Every material needs cleaning before covering. But the cleaning method differs significantly.

Teak Cleaning

Teak develops a silver-gray patina over time. This is not damage. It is oxidation of the surface oils and is purely cosmetic. You do not need to restore the golden color before winter. If you want to restore it in spring, that is a separate project.

For winterization, all you need is to remove dirt, mildew, bird droppings, and food residue. Mix a tablespoon of mild dish soap in a gallon of warm water. Scrub with a nylon-bristle brush following the wood grain. Rinse thoroughly with a hose. Never pressure wash teak. The pressure damages the wood fibers and creates a rough surface that absorbs more moisture.

Let the teak dry completely (24-48 hours) before applying any treatment.

Aluminum and Steel

Powder-coated aluminum is the easiest outdoor furniture to maintain. Soap and water removes everything. Check the coating for chips or scratches where bare metal is exposed. Touch up with matching paint pen ($8 at the hardware store) to prevent corrosion at those points.

Wrought iron and uncoated steel require more attention. Any exposed metal will rust over winter. Sand rust spots with 220-grit sandpaper, apply rust converter ($12 for Rust-Oleum brand), then touch up with matching spray paint.

For a comparison of how these materials perform long-term, see our teak vs aluminum vs wicker guide.

Resin Wicker

Resin wicker (synthetic PE rattan) is mold-prone because the weave creates pockets where moisture sits. Spray the entire piece with a garden hose, then scrub with soapy water and a soft brush. Get into the crevices where the weave overlaps. Rinse and let dry thoroughly.

Check for loose strands. Resin wicker unravels at stress points (where armrests meet the frame, where seat meets back). A loose strand left through winter will worsen. Trim it flush and apply a dot of clear silicone sealant.

Cushions and Fabric

Sunbrella and other solution-dyed acrylic fabrics can be bleached without color loss. Mix 1 cup of bleach per gallon of water, spray the fabric, let sit for 15 minutes, then scrub with a soft brush and rinse. This kills mold spores that would otherwise bloom over winter.

Other fabrics (polyester, cotton blends) cannot handle bleach. Use OxiClean ($8/tub) dissolved in warm water instead.

Cushions must be completely dry before storage. Store damp cushions and you will find mildew in spring. Stand them on edge in a sunny spot for 24 hours minimum.

Step 2: Treat and Protect

Teak

Apply teak sealer, not teak oil, before winter. Oil feeds mold in wet conditions. Sealer (like Semco or Star Brite, $25-35/quart) creates a hydrophobic barrier that repels moisture without trapping it.

Apply sealer with a foam brush on completely dry wood. One coat is sufficient. Let cure for 24 hours before covering. The sealer does not change the appearance of weathered teak but does prevent water absorption.

Metal

After cleaning and touching up any rust or chips:

• Aluminum: Apply a thin coat of car wax (any brand, $8-15). The wax layer prevents water spots and adds a barrier against salt and acid rain. Buff with a soft cloth.
• Iron/steel: Apply paste wax (Johnson’s paste wax, $10) to all surfaces. This is the single most effective winter protection for ferrous metals. The wax fills micro-pores and prevents moisture from reaching the metal.

Wicker

Spray resin wicker with 303 Aerospace Protectant ($15 for 32 oz). This is a UV protectant primarily, but it also creates a slight hydrophobic surface that sheds water faster. One application lasts 3-4 months.

Step 3: Cover or Store

You have two options: cover in place or move to storage. The right choice depends on your climate and space.

When to Cover in Place

Cover in place if:

• Your furniture is too heavy or large to move (large dining sets, sectional sofas)
• You have a covered patio that blocks direct snow and rain
• Your climate gets cold but not brutally wet (mountain West, upper Midwest)

Best furniture covers:

Cover fit matters more than cover quality. A loose cover traps wind underneath, billows, and abrads the furniture surface all winter. Drawstring cinches or bungee cords that secure the cover tightly are essential.

Never use plastic sheeting (painter’s plastic) as a furniture cover. It traps moisture underneath and creates a greenhouse effect on sunny winter days. Condensation forms on the inside of the plastic and drips onto the furniture continuously.

When to Store

Store if:

• Your furniture is lightweight (aluminum dining chairs, small side tables)
• You have garage, basement, or shed space
• Your climate brings heavy wet snow, ice storms, or extended freezing rain

Storage location priorities:

1. Climate-controlled garage or basement: Best option. Temperature swings are minimal.
2. Unheated garage or shed: Good. Protects from precipitation. Cold is fine. Moisture fluctuation is the enemy.
3. Under a deck: Acceptable for metal furniture. Not ideal for wood.
4. Inside the house: Overkill for most furniture but necessary for high-end teak dining sets you want to preserve at showroom quality.

Stack chairs vertically to save floor space. Stand folding tables on edge against a wall. Use moving blankets ($8 each at Harbor Freight) between stacked pieces to prevent scratching.

Step 4: Cushion and Accessory Storage

Cushions should never stay outside over winter, even under covers. The combination of cold, moisture, and low airflow guarantees mold.

Store cushions in:

• A dry indoor space (closet, basement shelf, attic if accessible)
• Large storage bins with ventilation (drill holes in the lid)
• Vacuum storage bags if space is tight

Small accessories (outdoor lanterns, decorative planters, string lights) should come inside. Ceramic and terracotta planters will crack if left outside in freeze-thaw climates. See our planter guide for freeze-resistant alternatives.

Material-Specific Winter Risk

Glass tabletops deserve special mention. A glass top left outside can crack from thermal shock if direct sun hits it after a freezing night. Remove glass tops and store them indoors wrapped in moving blankets. The base can stay outside under a cover.

Spring Reactivation

When temperatures consistently stay above 50 degrees F (10 degrees C):

1. Remove covers. Inspect for any damage.
2. Wipe down all surfaces with a damp cloth.
3. Check for new rust on metal, mold on wood, cracking on wicker.
4. Bring cushions out only after overnight temperatures stay above 40 degrees F (4 degrees C).
5. Apply fresh teak oil if you want to restore golden color (optional).
6. Replace any covers that showed wear, tearing, or UV degradation.

The Bottom Line

Winterization is 80% cleaning and 20% covering. A clean, treated piece of furniture under a decent cover will come through winter fine. A dirty piece under an expensive cover will come through damaged.

The total cost of winterizing a 6-piece patio dining set: roughly $60-100 in materials (soap, sealer/wax, cover). The cost of replacing furniture damaged by a single neglected winter: $500-3,000. The math is straightforward.